Apart from the White and Black Towns, Calcutta had a "Grey Town" around the Bowbazar area that was inhabited neither by the whites/British nor by the blacks/ Indians/Bengalis. This area housed those who fell in between these two colours, like the Chinese, Muslim, Jewish, Parsi, Buddhist, and the Anglo-Indian people - giving it a very cosmopolitan culture akin to those in the South East Asian port towns like Singapore or Melaka.
JEWISH HERITAGE IN CALCUTTA
Magen David Synagogue is located at the junction of Brabourne Road and Canning Street in Kolkata. It is the second operating synagogue in Kolkata, the other being the Beth El Synagogue at Pollock Street. Memorial plaques adorn both walls on each side of the entrance. The services of the Magen David Synagogue have long stopped but the interiors are astonishingly well maintained. The checkered marble floor, gleaming chandeliers, stained glass windows and ornate floral pillars shipped from Paris enhance its continental look.
Shalom Cohen (Shalom ben Aharon ben Obadiah Ha-Cohen) a flamboyant young Jewish trader arrived in Calcutta in August 1798 to deal in silk, spices, indigo and Arabian horses. He had travelled a long way from his homeland in Aleppo, Syria, to Baghdad to Bombay & Surat to finally arrive at Calcutta, the power hub of British India. Although there was a presence of Jewish merchants already in Calcutta his Baghdadi Jewish community settled down here only after the arrival of Shalom Cohen.
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| Maghen David Synagogue |
David Joseph Ezra, who set up the Magen David in his father's name and who made his fortune in trading and real estate, has many prominent buildings named after him, like Esplanade Mansion and Chowringhee Mansion. Even Ezra Street now known for its electrical and light market is named after him.
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| Chowringhee Mansion |
The number of Jews in Kolkata dwindled from 6000 during the 19th century to only 20 with half of them over 70. This decline in the numbers may be attributed to two semi-concurrent historical events – India gaining independence in August 1947 and the birth of Israel in May 1948. After 1947, many Jews left for their own Promised Land. Many among the current generation moved to Israel or to other greener pastures like USA or Canada. Today almost 100,000 Jews of Indian origin live in Israel.
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| Masood, one of the caretakers |
Many of you probably know that this place has been looked after by a Muslim family for ages. We met Masood, a history graduate, who along with his father-in-law, proudly takes care of the synagogue. He told us as a matter of fact, when questioned if they find it odd given the equation between these two communities, that it was a much better profession than working in a bar!
Here are some shots taken inside the Maghen David Synagogue in Kolkata. The second floor balcony was reserved for women. Apparently one of the reasons they were sent up was because they talked too much!! The men downstairs had to frequently sush them.
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The view from its terrace - if you dare to walk up its spiral metal staircase (ghorano shiri) - is very interesting. In full view, within a stone's throw from each other are a mosque, church, gurdwara and a Hanuman temple!
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| The church and the blue gurdwara |
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| The green mosque |
(All photos are mine and information from the internet)
Some further links
https://www.taleof2backpackers.com/jews-synagogues-in-kolkata/
https://thewire.in/urban/jewish-community-kolkata
https://www.telegraphindia.com/opinion/a-slice-of-jewish-calcutta/cid/1690472
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